The Heavenly Twins

Michael Hoyt

The Heavenly Twins

These two peaks adorn the western end of a three-mile-long ridge which connects to Saint Mary Peak. Easily recognizable from many points in the Bitterroot Valley, these two summits (9,282’ & 9,243’) have been the sought-after destination of many area climbers

Bagging these summits is no easy task. Over the years, a few hardy souls have reached these mountains by climbing from the Big Creek drainage (south) or the Kootenai drainage (north). Both routes include gigantic elevation gains and sections of hellish bushwhacking.

The simplest, and likely easiest, route to these peaks is along the connecting ridge from Saint Mary Peak. Staying mostly on the south side of ridge-crest, this path (Class 2 & 3) to the Heavenly Twins includes substantial elevation gain and loss. Once near the South Twin, the track to the summit swings around the south side of the peak before ascending the west face (Class 3 & 4).

The route along the north-south ridge between the north and south Twins stays close to but not on the ridge-crest (Class 4 & 4). When snow-covered, this connecting route is extremely treacherous.

Michael Hoyt


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