Monday, June 2, 2014

Blodgett Canyon Climbing

Posted By on Mon, Jun 2, 2014 at 10:37 AM

The Cornlier Route

After a long fruitful winter of skiing, it was nice to climb some dry rock.

Ben and I headed out from the Blodgett Climbing Ranch for two days of attaching to some solid 5.10 multi pitch routes. Ben was honed for trad from a trip to Indian Creek and I had made some good efforts at Shoshone and the local crags, so was in good shape. We headed to the Cornlier route the first day, following some friends we knew were there. We caught them as they were finishing and we started up in the afternoon on this west facing three pitch corner system. We lucked out with sun on us as the wind was breezy and cool. Marked by the crux at the start of the first pitch, an overhanging corner system with somewhat awkward holds but good protection, once Ben rolled through this obstacle the rest of the climb seemed relatively straightforward with pleasant cruxes, good belay stations and a bolted long reaching crux on the third pitch. Find the Cornlier Route west of the entire Drip Buttress on the next crag's west face.

The next day dawned clear and bright again and we muscled up to the ramp start on the Prow Buttress to climb the middle four pitches of the Timebinder Route. The climb grew in intensity as we pushed through the pitches and we found ourselves facing the exquisite red tower pitch in afternoon light. A truly perfect dihedral between the mother rock and a large leaning tower, the pitch has great layback moves followed by hand jam rests with decent feet on face holds. Ben put up a beautiful lead on this 10c route with good gear, good rests, and extraordinary climbing. A true highlight and classic of any climbing trip to Blodgett Canyon. We hope to return to finish the final two pitches later this season sometime.

Racking up at the initial pitch of the Cornlier route
  • John Lehrman
  • Racking up at the initial pitch of the Cornlier route

Ben through the initial crux

Leading pitch 2 at the Cornlier
  • Ben Brunsvold
  • Leading pitch 2 at the Cornlier

The Red Tower pitch

Mid Lead on the red tower pitch
  • JL
  • Mid Lead on the red tower pitch

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