Snow pack 

When you're a musher in Montana's grueling Race to the Sky, dog is your copilot.

I look at the eight dogs left on my team: Shoshone, Jake, Jag, Otter, Gonja, Tanner, Tok and Sima. It's mid-afternoon, and we're all resting at the Seeley Lake checkpoint. We've made it through the easy legs of the race. We're about to run the hard ones. I miss the four dogs I've dropped.

The team has done several 80-mile runs on trails just across the highway, so they have the training to make the 100-mile round trip to Owl Creek and back. At least, that's what I hope. The conditioning runs were with a dozen dogs, and it's a lot easier for 12 to pull a sled than eight. I know the team can handle the distance. I'm just not sure about the load.

The big question, though, is whether to blow through the Owl Creek checkpoint or stop and rest. Stopping would cost a lot of time. But if I push the dogs too hard, they'll quit and my race will be over.

The options rattle in my mind as we pull away from Seeley Lake at 8 p.m., the dogs fresh after their 10-hour break. I'm not as lucky. Through nobody's fault but my own I snagged only about three hours of sleep over the previous two nights, thanks to chummy conversation with other mushers instead of resting.

click to enlarge TOM ROBERTSON

Running at night tires mushers no matter how much sleep they get. Headlamps create a tunnel world. Eyes strain to see what the beam illuminates. The sled runners make a soft, hypnotic sound as they move through the snow, and the dogs make almost no sound at all.

I fight it, but I can't keep my eyes open. The same thing happened this morning, sledding from White Tail Ranch to Seeley Lake, but it passed quickly with the coming of daylight. This time, daylight is hours away.

I give the whoa command. Almost 200 miles into the race, the dogs are happy to stop. I have at least some expectation that other racers will pass, so I make sure to pull over and keep the path clear when I set both snow hooks, a musher's version of anchors. The dogs quickly curl up side by side along the length of the gang line.

By midnight, the temperature drops to single digits and snow falls lightly. With my back against the sled, I slump my head forward and sleep for a blessed 45 minutes. Then I get up, feed and water the dogs, pack up, pull the snow hooks and give the hike command.

I have no hope of winning the race or even coming close. I am a rookie. I've dropped four dogs. I just hope to finish.

The Race to the Sky is one of the toughest and most scenic long-distance dogsled races in the lower 48, traversing 350 miles of the rugged Rocky Mountains surrounding the Seeley-Swan Valley. Every February, competing teams run 100 miles a day or more, pulling sleds laden with 60 pounds of gear and about 170 pounds of musher in conditions ranging from blizzards and sub-zero cold to midday heat and rain.

I've dreamed of being in a high-caliber race like this since 2003, when I moved to Montana, built a kennel, learned to run dogs and, in particular, learned how to run distance races. But the Race to the Sky is way beyond anything that my dogs and I have ever attempted before.

click to enlarge MICHAEL BERTRAND
  • Michael Bertrand

Most mushers complete a couple of 100- to 200-mile point-to-point races before trying a marathon like this one. Not me. My dogs and I have never run more than 85 miles without the comfort of our familiar, warm beds.

What we've done instead is race in less demanding, two-day heats, where the trails are typically better groomed, the courses are 50 miles or less a day, and the dogs rest at night inside covered kennels on the back of a rig. Heat races are good fun, but they lack the stuff that got me into mushing in the first place: adventure.

Yvon Chouinard defines adventure as something akin to going out and letting birds shit on your head. The Seeley-Swan Valley doesn't hold a lot of birds in winter, but running a team of Huskies for 350 continuous miles certainly presents opportunities for shit to happen.

I've now learned that firsthand. I've had to drop one dog because she wasn't fast enough and another three because of rookie errors.

The nine of us pull into Owl Creek, the 230-mile mark, just as dawn starts to break. It's decision time: Is the team fit enough to pass up this opportunity for rest and slog the hard 50 miles to the next one? Am I?

To buy some time while I weigh the choices, I make small-talk with the bearded, long-haired checker. Randy is also an expert machinist and welder, and the snow hooks he makes are used by mushers throughout the world, including me.

A few minutes pass. Maybe I'm too sleep-deprived to think straight, but nothing is telling me to stop. I ask Randy to help me turn the team around to start the trip back. I'll find out soon enough if I've hung myself with the choice.

As the sun clears the horizon, the dogs and I climb the Owl Creek drainage to the ridge above. I welcome daylight and stow my headlamp. Heavy clouds float above the peaks, and light breaks through only occasionally.

For now, staying awake is not a problem. The team trots along slowly but steadily. All of them pull well except for Sima. A slack tug line tells me the diarrhea I noticed earlier has gotten him down.

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